Singapore - Eat. Shop. Sweat. Repeat.

Singapore.  It's one of those places you hear so much about, yet often know so very, very little.

In my case, my ignorance was pretty profound.  I knew for example that it was a fortress thought impregnable by the British by sea when they faced the Japanese in WW2.  However, by the expedient of approaching down the penisula, the Japanese captured it quickly and made the Brits say a collective “doh!”.

Other than, I was clueless, so as my trip started, and our nearly empty double-decker A380 left Heathrow ahead of any pesky ash eruptions in Iceland, I was frantically trying to read up on things.

Here's what I discovered – basically, Singapore is a ridiculously efficient free-trade city on the tip of Malaysia.  With a hyper-economy, and a mix of Chinese, Indian, and Malay in the population, plus the odd bit of British colonial heritage, it's a heady brew indeed.

The first thing I noticed?  Singapore is hot.  Really really hot.  Throw in 35 degree weather with 90% humidity, and even walking around a few blocks becomes quite a battle.

Fortunately, the locals have come up with a remedy; it's all about air-conditioning, baby.  I think the average Singaporean spends half their lives in any of the massive malls that seemingly dot every corner.  Heck, even the local 7-11 and most local storefronts are a blessed oasis where you can walk in and cool down, even for only a few seconds.

Coming from London, which has been seemingly locked in an eternal rain and cloud covered “spring”, I was pretty unprepared to walk out of the air-conditioned tram station coming from the airport, when my walk of 15 minutes to my hostel left literally dripping with sweat, and after a 12 hour flight, more than a bit fragrant.  So it was time for a shower before I caught a local bus (air-conditioned as well, genius!) downtown.

I had mixed impressions my first day.  On one hand, I loved the mix of cultures and the evident pride the locals took in their immaculate, modern city.  It's spotless.  The very rare times you spot a piece of litter it actually takes you aback a bit by surprise.

That being said, I started wandering around and just felt a lack of... something.  It's hard to pin down, but there just seems to be a lack of a certain spark in the city.  Great food, amazing shopping and gorgeous sights, for sure, but there's no buzz or vibe to many of the areas.  It's almost TOO perfect – think Pleasantville but in skyscraper form.

Y'all have probably heard stories of the fine-heavy atmosphere of the place; they're not kidding around.  Chewing gum is strictly prohibited to enter the country, and as a cyclist, I was taken aback to see this sign warning of fines for cycling, not walking your bike in a pedestrian underpass:

So, that was my first take.   After trying my luck at one of the many food courts under any mall, with hand-made noodles and dumplings, I ended up checking out the Esplanade, which is a cutting edge performing arts center that I'm calling Singapore's “Pickle Tower”.  Just like the famous building in London, you either love or hate – but it definitely gives a much-needed dose of the quirky and absurd to the city.

Then, it was off to Chinatown.  Home of the coolies who helped turn this sleepy village into a world-class shipping port, it's the center of much of the original culture left in the city.  When I was walking around the bustling street markets, and being assailed on all sides by delicious odors and slightly odd sights, I felt like I could have been back in SF's own amazing Chinese neighborhood.

Among the highlights?

There was the temple built by grateful survivors of the boat journey from China, with the ultra-modern Singapore skyline in the distance:

Or, the odd sight of a genuine Austrian sausage stand operating smack dab in the middle of the chaotic market.  Throw in intricately ornate Hindu temples and finding out that enterprising pork jerky vendors are trying to position their heart-shaped jerky-pops as the perfect way to say “I love you” to mothers everywhere for Mom's Day.

I headed back to the esplanade for some very tasty (compared to London) and quite reasonable sushi, then it was time to try the classic tourist experience – a Singapore Sling at the hotel that started them all... Raffle's.

So, I tried it.  And for 29 Singaporean dollars, or £15, I gotta say... disappointing.  The bar was great, with peanut shells on the floor and palm fans wafting gently in the humid evening breeze.

But the drink?  Basically, a syrupy sweet, near bubble-gum flavored concoction.  It's worth going to the hotel and bar for sure, but by all means, just try to split one of these next time, and order a proper gin & tonic as a chaser to wash down all those memories...