Singapore - Eat. Shop. Sweat. Repeat.

Singapore.  It's one of those places you hear so much about, yet often know so very, very little.

In my case, my ignorance was pretty profound.  I knew for example that it was a fortress thought impregnable by the British by sea when they faced the Japanese in WW2.  However, by the expedient of approaching down the penisula, the Japanese captured it quickly and made the Brits say a collective “doh!”.

Other than, I was clueless, so as my trip started, and our nearly empty double-decker A380 left Heathrow ahead of any pesky ash eruptions in Iceland, I was frantically trying to read up on things.

Here's what I discovered – basically, Singapore is a ridiculously efficient free-trade city on the tip of Malaysia.  With a hyper-economy, and a mix of Chinese, Indian, and Malay in the population, plus the odd bit of British colonial heritage, it's a heady brew indeed.

The first thing I noticed?  Singapore is hot.  Really really hot.  Throw in 35 degree weather with 90% humidity, and even walking around a few blocks becomes quite a battle.

Fortunately, the locals have come up with a remedy; it's all about air-conditioning, baby.  I think the average Singaporean spends half their lives in any of the massive malls that seemingly dot every corner.  Heck, even the local 7-11 and most local storefronts are a blessed oasis where you can walk in and cool down, even for only a few seconds.

Coming from London, which has been seemingly locked in an eternal rain and cloud covered “spring”, I was pretty unprepared to walk out of the air-conditioned tram station coming from the airport, when my walk of 15 minutes to my hostel left literally dripping with sweat, and after a 12 hour flight, more than a bit fragrant.  So it was time for a shower before I caught a local bus (air-conditioned as well, genius!) downtown.

I had mixed impressions my first day.  On one hand, I loved the mix of cultures and the evident pride the locals took in their immaculate, modern city.  It's spotless.  The very rare times you spot a piece of litter it actually takes you aback a bit by surprise.

That being said, I started wandering around and just felt a lack of... something.  It's hard to pin down, but there just seems to be a lack of a certain spark in the city.  Great food, amazing shopping and gorgeous sights, for sure, but there's no buzz or vibe to many of the areas.  It's almost TOO perfect – think Pleasantville but in skyscraper form.

Y'all have probably heard stories of the fine-heavy atmosphere of the place; they're not kidding around.  Chewing gum is strictly prohibited to enter the country, and as a cyclist, I was taken aback to see this sign warning of fines for cycling, not walking your bike in a pedestrian underpass:

So, that was my first take.   After trying my luck at one of the many food courts under any mall, with hand-made noodles and dumplings, I ended up checking out the Esplanade, which is a cutting edge performing arts center that I'm calling Singapore's “Pickle Tower”.  Just like the famous building in London, you either love or hate – but it definitely gives a much-needed dose of the quirky and absurd to the city.

Then, it was off to Chinatown.  Home of the coolies who helped turn this sleepy village into a world-class shipping port, it's the center of much of the original culture left in the city.  When I was walking around the bustling street markets, and being assailed on all sides by delicious odors and slightly odd sights, I felt like I could have been back in SF's own amazing Chinese neighborhood.

Among the highlights?

There was the temple built by grateful survivors of the boat journey from China, with the ultra-modern Singapore skyline in the distance:

Or, the odd sight of a genuine Austrian sausage stand operating smack dab in the middle of the chaotic market.  Throw in intricately ornate Hindu temples and finding out that enterprising pork jerky vendors are trying to position their heart-shaped jerky-pops as the perfect way to say “I love you” to mothers everywhere for Mom's Day.

I headed back to the esplanade for some very tasty (compared to London) and quite reasonable sushi, then it was time to try the classic tourist experience – a Singapore Sling at the hotel that started them all... Raffle's.

So, I tried it.  And for 29 Singaporean dollars, or £15, I gotta say... disappointing.  The bar was great, with peanut shells on the floor and palm fans wafting gently in the humid evening breeze.

But the drink?  Basically, a syrupy sweet, near bubble-gum flavored concoction.  It's worth going to the hotel and bar for sure, but by all means, just try to split one of these next time, and order a proper gin & tonic as a chaser to wash down all those memories...

Round the World Trip: Round 2 - On the Road Again...

You know, sometimes, it's plain hard to predict what life's going to throw your way.  Last year, when I had the opportunity to take a few months off for a sabbatical from Monster, I thought I was the luckiest guy around.  Then, when I landed back in London after seeing such amazing places, I figured “right, that was the last BIG trip I'll have the chance to do for a lonnng time”.

Which actually turned out to mean, well, now.

Why?  Well, back in early March, I got the word that after nearly five years, I was going to be let go from Monster.  (Note:  Having done a bit of career-hopping early on, five years is my personal record in ANY job.)  The funny thing is that when the HR manager took me aside, she must have been expecting a much more depressed reaction.  Instead, I was hard-pressed to keep from grinning, since with the very generous tax-free severance package, I suddenly had the rare combination of money AND free time.

That meant, of course, trying to fill up the ol' passport again...


View RTW Trip 2010 in a larger map

The plan this time around was based around a trip to Mongolia.  I've heard such amazing things about this still relatively unknown country that I ended up basing my trip around it.  So, I had to pass on my first plan – the TranSiberian Railway from Moscow.

Instead, I'm starting with a flight into Singapore.   I'm going to check out Malaysia for a few weeks, then it's off to Hong Kong, which I've been dying to see for years after reading one too many of James Clavell's monster novels like Tai-Pan.  Four days later, I'll set off through the south and central parts of China, including some spectacular scenery and mountain hikes, before winding in Beijing.

That leg over, it's time for a flight to Ulaan Bataar – Mongolia's capital for a  week of general touring the countryside, and a two week guided trek in the western mountain.  The bonus is that I'll have the chance to finish with checking out the Naadam Festival, showing off horsemanship, archery, and all sorts of things.  But, instead of being in the capital with the rest of the tourists, I'll be in a small town far off the beaten path, which should be amazing.

Finally, it's back to SF for a few weeks with the family and friends, including a family reunion on a lazy river resort and my (gasp) 20th high school reunion.  I know, I know – scary freaking thought... I still feel about 28, not nearly ten years older.  Sheesh.

Add in a road trip with my friend Emily to Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons National Parks, and a trip up to Portland to see Dave, Drea, and my friends Ross and Tracy, and it's a full itinerary.

(Uh, I didn't take that shot - but it does fire me up to see what sort of scenery is out there...)

The plan is to be back in London on the August – ready and eager even to get back to work in a small startup.  We'll see what happens...

Now, I'll sign off with a blatant effort to get a cheesy country song stuck in your head... like the great Willie Nelson once sang... “on the road again... just can't wait to get on the road again...”